Blackwork "Sweet Bag"

Introduction:

This is a sample of a sixteenth century sweet bag done in a style of embroidery known as blackwork or "Spanish worke". Blackwork done on white linen with black silk thread is common throughout the period, found on numerous items, including smocks, coifs, cushions, bags, sleeves, etc. (Arnold 204-217, 224-229, 299-303 )

Sweet bags were purses used during the late sixteenth century for a variety of reasons, ranging from holding herbs to candy. They were often embroidered with blackwork and given as gifts. Queen Elizabeth received many of these bags as gifts in the mid 1550's. (Arnold 194) These bags were used to hold sweet powder and laid in between garments of the great wardrobe.

The design:

The design is a geometric pattern known as a diaper in blackwork. A diaper filling pattern in embroidery, consists two alternating elements which are the same size. They are offset, both horizontally and vertically to produce a defined vertical, horizontal, and diagonal axis. This linear design produces a pleasing effect when worked in a monochromic color, such as this piece. This pattern is a variation of a pattern found on the Chalice Veil, Emblems of Passions from the late sixteenth / early seventeenth century. (Berry)

This piece, like much blackwork done in period, was worked on white linen with black silk. It was worked with 60/2 black silk in back stitch. The drawstrings are fingerloop braids worked in the same 60/2 silk. They are the 5 loop flat purse string braids, found on numerous pieces through out the period. (Swales & Williams 2-6) I hand stitched (straight stitch) the pouch and added a linen lining to finish the bag.

Bibliography:

Arnold, Janet. Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd: The Inventories of the Wardrobes of Robes prepared in July 1600… Great Britian: Maney & Son.1988.

Arnold, Janet. Patterns of Fashion

Berry, Robin. Blackwork Filling Pattern- Suitable for Working as a Band. http://www.bayrose.org

King, Donald & Santina Levy The Victoria & Albert Museum's Textile Collection Embroidery in Britain From 1200 to 1750. London: The Victoria & Albert Museum, 1995.

Skinner, Linn. 100 Blackwork Charts. Los Angeles: Skinner Sisters, 1996.

Skinner, Linn. Another 100 Blackwork Charts. Los Angeles: Skinner Sisters, 1997.

Shoshononnah Jehanne ferch Emrys. The Compleat Anachronist 31: An Introduction to Blackwork. SCA Inc, 1987.

Swales, Lois & Zoe Kuhn Williams. The Compleat Anachronist 108: Fingerloop Briads. SCA Inc, 2000.

Victoria & Albert Musuem. http://www.vam.ac.uk